Jacobites in Lochalsh

The word Jacobite is from the Latin, meaning follower of James. In 1688, the catholic King James the 7^th of Scots and 2^nd of England abdicated from the throne in what became known as The Glorious Revolution and fled to Europe. William of Orange, a protestant and his wife Mary were crowned, ending the line of the Stuarts. This went down well with the ruling class and many of the people in England, but not so well in Scotland, especially in the Highlands where the vast majority supported James’ claim to the throne. The English parliament quickly accepted the new monarchs, and it soon became clear that the Scottish parliament would do the same. 

There were several Jacobite uprisings in the half century or so that followed James’ abdication. In 1689 the Jacobites defeated Government forces at Killiecrankie, however, John Graham – Bonnie Dundee who raised the army and led them into battle died during the fight and the uprising ran out of steam. 

In 1715 another uprising occurred. By this time, James the 7^th had died in exile, and his son, also James continued his family’s claim to the throne. There was an inconclusive battle at Sherriffmuir and when James 8th, as he became known to the Jacobites, landed at Peterhead he eventually sailed back to Europe due to lack of support. After the uprising, the British government decided to build forts and roads across the Highlands to keep the people in check. The building of these structures was overseen by two men, General Wade and Major Caulfield.  Many roads were built and some are still in use today. The route over Mam Ratagan and down to the village of Glenelg is one of these and is still a worthwhile drive today.

Built by Caulfield, the roadover Mam Ratagan leads to Bernera barracks, one of the forts that was constructed. The ruins of the barracks can still be seen today, and you can take a path from Glenelg to them. Today the Bernera barracks is in a state of dereliction and has been fenced off, however, one can still see the size of it and what an undertaking this must have been to build. Some of the stones used to build the barracks are said to have been taken from two nearby brochs – Iron Age dwellings. These are known as Dun Tulm and Dun Telve and can still be visited and walked around. If you’ve driven over to the Glenelg area between Easter and October,  there is a ferry that will take you and your car from Glenelg over to Kylerhea on the Isle of Skye.  No booking is required – just queue up. The ferry only lasts a few minutes but is well worth the trip. It is the last turntable ferry running, and Sea eagles and otters can be seen in the area. To get there, head to Sheil Bridge on the A87 and follow the signs. 

In 1719 there was another uprising and many of the key moments were played out in Lochalsh and the surrounding area.   Spain had decided to support James’ claim to the throne and promised troops to support the Jacobites. A fleet carrying 5000 Spanish troops set sail for south east England. Meanwhile another force was landing in the Western Isles carrying around 300 Spaniards and some Jacobite exiles. The idea was to create a diversion from the large force heading for England, and also to try and raise the Clans in the Highlands. Unfortunately for the Jacobites, the large Spanish fleet was turned back due to awful weather and never landed.

The force in the Highlands headed towards Eilean Donan castle by Dornie, and set up camp there. About 1000 Highlanders had answered the call. This was not as many as had been hoped. Under the leadership of the Marquiss of Tullibardine, the main force of the Jacobites headed for Inverness, leaving their stores and a small group of 46 Spaniards to garrison the castle. In the cellars of the castle were stored around 300 barrels of gunpowder. The Government had by this time got wind of what was happening in the Highlands sent a force up and 3 Royal Navy frigates sailed up Lochalsh to Eilean Donan castle and proceeded to bombard it. There was nothing the Spaniards could do against this, and when the magazine of gunpowder went up, the castle was blown to smithereens. 

Eilean Donan castle lay in ruins until the early 20^th century until it was rebuilt by John Gilstrap MacCrae. The castle is now one of Scotland’s major tourist attractions. And has featured in Hollywood blockbusters such as Highlander (1986), and the remake filmed earlier this spring starring Henry Cavill. It is in the village of Dornie on the A87. If you’re heading to or from the Skye bridge on the A87, you can’t miss it as you drive past. There is a visitor centre, cafe and shop. 

One thousand Jacobite Highlanders, among them Rob Roy MacGregor, along with nearly 300 Spaniards were heading for Inverness. The government forces knew this and led by a man called General Whightman they followed. About halfway up Glen Shiel on June the 10^th 1719 the two armies faced each other. With the Government army numbering around 1000 troops, the Jacobites had the numerical advantage. They also had the height advantage, positioning themselves higher up the slopes of Glen Shiel, but the Government army had mortars. These Coehorn mortars were far more than the Jacobites had, and despite having the better positions, they were pummelled into submission. The Highlanders who were fighting at the flanks of the Jacobite lines took to the hills but the Spaniards who occupied the centre of the Jacobite lines had 274 men captured by the Government army. They were eventually returned to Spain. A peak near the site of the battle became known as Sgurr nan Spainteach – The peak of the Spanish. The Jacobite rising of 1719 ended at the battle of Glen Shiel. 

The site of the battle is signposted as you drive through Glen Shiel on the A87. There are information boards describing the battle and you can imagine quite clearly what happened that day. It is also a beautiful place to stop. Recent archaeological digs have found remnants of mortars and shot that was fired during the battle 

This was not the last Jacobite uprising. In 1745 Bonnie Prince Charlie arrived in Scotland and raised his Standard at Glenfinnan. This rising ended in defeat for the Jacobites at Culloden on the 16^th of April 1746. This was their last stand, and after this life in the Highlands was never the same. 

ER.